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We booked our night's accommodation at Monistrol-d'Allier, in Haute-Loire, about 30km away. After our solemn blessing, we hurried to the sacristy to purchase the all-important Credencial, the pilgrim's passport, which is stamped by whoever's residence you spend the night time at on the way, being an abiding record of your pilgrimage. There's a revival underway worldwide, with pilgrim numbers continually rising every year, as people go in search of something the mainstream Church no more seems in a position to provide.

At least 100 pilgrims, of all ages and nationalities, congregated within the chill morning air. It was a steep ascend the crudely-cobbled rue des Tables after which up several flights of steps towards the Cathedrale Notre-Dame du Puy-en-Velay for that 7am Pilgrims' Mass and official oncoming of our pelerinage. And thus, we set off for Auvergne to begin our journey. John, a buddy who had been also looking for a new direction, suggested the Via Podiensis, the pilgrimage route that starts at Le Puy-en-Velay and heads west towards Santiago de Compostela (Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle in French). Not taking flight, but moving purposefully, virtuously, down another path, opening oneself as much as new experiences. One day, reading an article by Bruce Chatwin one line in particular caught my attention: “The best thing would be to walk.” Movement is the best cure, he argued – for everything. I needed to re-adjust to a different rhythm of life. But after taking early retirement from teaching, I discovered myself looking for a reinvention of sorts.

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